Description
This lot comes from the Koperasi Produsen Putra Tani Berkarya, a relatively young cooperative founded in 2022 by the new generation of producers in the Bener Meriah and Aceh Tengah (Central Aceh) regions, at the northern tip of Sumatra. Its roughly 708 members live in or near nine villages in the area, farming plots that are traditionally passed down from generation to generation and that rarely exceed 1 to 3 hectares. Unlike many Sumatra lots, the cooperative runs its own processing unit with a drying area, huller, sorting room, and storage room, so it collects freshly picked red cherry from its members and processes it centrally to keep quality consistent across every export.
Bener Meriah is one of the regencies in Aceh province and part of the celebrated Gayo Highlands, one of the most recognized coffee growing areas in Indonesia. The region is famous for its Gayo coffee thanks to its cool climate, large hills, and volcanic soil, with an active volcano in the immediate area. Coffee grows here between 1200 and 1400 meters above sea level, on the volcanic slopes of the Barisan Mountains and amongst the rainforest. Aceh is also an origin with a strong female presence in production and a fabric made up almost entirely of smallholders, which gives these cooperative lots a very particular character. The varieties grown are the ones typical of the area: Ateng, Bor Bor, Catimor, and the Timor hybrids.
Processing is Wet-Hulled, known locally as Giling Basah, the method responsible for the unmistakable profile of Sumatran coffees. The cherry is depulped and washed, pre-dried until it reaches roughly 35% moisture, and only then hulled while still wet, leaving the greenish-blue bean exposed. It is then finished on patios down to the 10 to 13% moisture appropriate for export. This process was developed to speed up drying in a climate of constant rain and cloud cover, and it is exactly what gives Sumatra coffees the heavy body, low acidity, and earthy, spicy notes that set them apart from the rest of the world. The lot is Fair Trade Organic certified, with harvest running November to January and April to May.
Tasting Notes: A clean and traditional Sumatra cup, heavy bodied with low acidity best at fuller roast levels. Like almost all Indonesian coffees, light roasts are not recommended: the earthy and spicy notes stay undeveloped and the body feels flat. At a strong medium roast the earthy chocolate and incense like spice really starts to pop out, a subtle hint of crispness can be found and the cup remains smooth and a little sweeter; a good point for pour-over or drip. At a darker roast it turns much fuller bodied and stronger, smoky and bittersweet cocoa notes, spice lingering in the aftertaste, and almost no acidity; great for dark roast fans, espresso, or as a blend base.
Roasting Notes: The wet-hulled processing leaves little chaff, which makes it easier to roast than many other origins. Avoid very light roasts, they do not do this profile justice. For a medium roast, a slightly longer development rounds the edges and brings out the best of the balance between spice and chocolate; aim to finish just after first crack. For a dark roast, take it toward the start or into second crack to build up body, smokiness, and bittersweet cocoa while keeping acidity to a minimum. Overall, a medium to dark roast is what suits this Sumatra best.
Diana Bailey (verified owner) –
This was a big hit with my two Sumatra fans at a French roast. Stands up well to cream (they like that, I do not). Big body with a great smoke and chocolate flavor! I preferred a bit lighter than Full French roast mainly because I could taste more of the earthy/peat. It surprised me how good it was taking it to just second crack in the pan. Both roast levels delivered a gorgeously complex and delicious cup!
Michele Sanders (verified owner) –
Wow, I love my wet hulled Indos, and this one is fantastic! In my Gene Cafe, it took a few roasts to nail it. So worth it – I took it well into rolling second cracks, almost a full minute. I’m drinking it now at day 11 (and did so many days before now), and it just gets better – So smooth, smoky, earthy, with lots of body, and I dare say syrupy on the tongue. Fantastic pourover. Drink it black. I see its gone, but I had to comment.