Description
This is one of the winning lots from my travels to Ethiopian in Feb 2025. Processed and exported by Dumerso, which was one of the cooler exporters I ran into. Female owned, with a 95% female workforce, they own some of their own wet-mills, including Hirut, but will also purchasing nice lots from wet-mills outside of their ownership circles depending on needs. Super caring folks that went well above and beyond to support the small holder farmers.
This very fruit-forward and bright natural comes from 232 smallholder farmers delivering ripe cherries to the Hirut (Dumerso) processing station in the heart of Yirgacheffe—specifically in the Yirga Chefe woreda, the micro-region that gives the coffee its name. Grown above 6200 feet, this is some seriously high altitude coffee, composed of Ethiopian landraces/heirlooms strains, and sun-dried on raised beds.
The Yirgacheffe environment is fiercely competitive: dense smallholders (many with <1 ha) and multiple processors vying for quality. The station was built in 1998, acquired by Hirut Berhanu in 2010, completely remodeled, and reopened for the 2013 harvest. Today it employs 400+ seasonal workers (~95% women) under the guidance of manager/QC Abenet Alemu son, who cares as much about cup quality as about connecting with the community.
With the operation now mature, the team formalized Dumerso Industrial Trading PLC to grind and export directly, and expanded benefits: loans and healthcare for staff, housing for seasonal workers, energy equipment for residents, and a project to press parchment as biofuel (additional income and reduced pressure on forests). The station has obtained Organic and Rainforest Alliance certifications at the plant level; this specific lot is marketed as Conventional.
Tasting Notes: Best at light to medium roast levels but works from light to dark depending on your personal tastes. Bright, clean, and sweet cup, medium-bodied with a creamy aftertaste. Very fruity profile: crisp citrus reminiscent of lemon, orange, and grapefruit, with a core of red fruits (blackberry/strawberry) and a slight floral undertone (lavender). These lovely lighter toned balance with a nice chocolaty undertone with some spice that is somewhat reminiscent of tea, which many would consider the terroir of Yirgacheffe. If you push the roast a little further, medium to dark, the cups turns much more chocolatey and spice notes with just a pinch of fruit in the aftertaste. In the light to medium roast range, a juicy sweetness with hints of watermelon is perceived. A balanced and very expressive combination.
Roasting Notes: Uniform natural from raised beds—it develops evenly but generates more chaff than usual. In light to light/medium roasts, the red fruits, flowers, and sparkling citrus are maximized; subtle peanut butter notes may emerge in the lighter profiles. In the medium, it achieves its best balance: berries, cocoa, and a creamy texture with great sweetness. If you choose to go darker, you’ll gain body and dark chocolate at the cost of less fruity brightness, although it remains pleasant.
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